Sunday 26 April 2015

Books: A Cidade e as Serras, Eça de Queirós

Welcome to my third book post - the other two can be found here, using the handy new Books page I've started.

A Cidade e as Serras is another classic Portuguese novel, and Eça is the quintessential Portuguese novelist. I want to compare him to Dickens, because of the approving nods and expressions of slight amazement that I get when I tell Portuguese colleagues that I'm reading his books. That isn't to say that his style, or subject matter, are like Dickens - although they both date from the 19th century (close enough...). Perhaps unlike Dickens, it is very normal for Portuguese young people to claim Eça is their favourite author. And after really getting 'stuck in', I can understand why.

A Cidade e as Serras was the novel Eça was working on at the time of his death, in 1900. The narrator, José Fernandes, tells the story of his friend Jacinto, from the time of their youth, spent in Paris, to middle age. Halfway through the book - without giving too much away - Jacinto's situation is transformed, when he moves from Paris to the rural tranquility of northern Portugal. He leaves behind the ennui and complexity of his Paris life, gaining the simplicity of an idyllic, and bucolic, existence.

Told like that, the story doesn't seem to hold much appeal - a pastoral fantasy of the urban elite. But I don't think it's like that at all. For me, the real joy of the novel is in Eça's wry commentary on pretty much everything. Both Jacinto and Zé Fernandes, the narrator, are by turns laughable and extremely sympathetic characters. Eça has a great knack for casting characters in different lights by showing the various situations they find themselves in. By the end of the novel, I really felt I knew these people.

As ever in my reading, I couldn't help noticing how Eça filters the story through the mouthpiece of Zé Fernandes, although he gives the appearance of telling an unedited version of his and Jacinto's lives. I was intrigued by the way Zé Fernandes glosses over any details of his own existence, which in some cases is frankly ridiculous - a year can pass in a matter of sentences when he's away from Jacinto, but an hour or two with Jacinto can take up dozens of pages.

All in all, I really enjoyed A Cidade e as Serras. Eça's writing is supposed to be 'difficult', and in some ways it is - for example, his descriptive language is very rich in unusual vocabulary, making it harder for a non-native speaker to understand. But in other respects, the construction of the novel makes it easy to get involved in the narrative - who can resist such compelling characters, or the immense variety of backgrounds and atmospheres?

I'm really excited to read more of Eça's work in the near future. I'd definitely recommend A Cidade e as Serras to anyone who likes a good, solid 19th century novel.

(NB this post accidentally stayed as a draft for about two weeks after it was written. Another book post is coming soon!)

Wednesday 22 April 2015

Tempo de despedidas

Or, time for goodbyes

This is a very belated post to round off my series of Lisbon diary entries. It's a whole week since I left Lisbon and returned to sunny England, meaning that I have just over a week left to catch up on, from the 7th to the 15th April.

The Praça do Município
Since it was my last week in Lisbon for the time being, I tried to pack in a lot of fun things! This also involved seeing goodbye to lots of the lovely people I'd met in the city. I carried on working until Tuesday 14th, the day before I flew home, and in many respects it was business as usual until that evening. Gym classes, canteen lunches, translations, preparing briefings, and birthday cake for colleagues - all the normal things! I'm really sad to have left the firm; it was a great experience to work there and I really feel that I learnt a lot throughout my three months, as well as making friends.

Friday brought a particularly special lunch as I went to eat with some of my ex-colleagues from my old job. It was nice to see them and catch up on their news and developments at the company.

With the Indonesian class, and our teacher Meiriana
Through the rest of the week I carried on with my normal outside-work activities: rowing on Saturday and Monday (I missed Wednesday because it was pouring with rain!), Indonesian classes on Tuesdays, and church on Sunday. On Saturday evening I also went out for dinner with the rowers at an 'Adega' - literally a winecellar, but in this case a traditional restaurant. It was great to spend time with them, and I even managed (under a lot of pressure) to make a short speech in Portuguese...

I spent quite a lot of the weekend wandering around Lisbon with Carly. We went to Campo de Ourique on Saturday, had a look round the market (the fancy Mercado de Campo de Ourique) and sat in the main square, relaxing and chatting.

Mercado de Campo de Ourique
Lots of fresh fruit, as well as the more restauranty stalls
Can't argue with a house that colour (seen in Campo de Ourique)
Then on Sunday we met up again for breakfast at our favourite kiosk in the Jardim das Amoreiras, which was excellent, as always. After church Carly, Jesse and I made friends with a couple, Nao and Tom, who were on holiday from England with their toddler. We took them to the much-loved café A Tentadora (where Carly and I had also gone the previous day) for lunch, then all got the tram down to the Praça de Camões, where we said goodbye. The three of us wandered around Chiado for a while and went to sit by the river and chat for a while, then headed home. I had a relaxing evening, knowing the next few days would be busy.
Last breakfast out!
Feeling philosophical by the river with Carly
And with Jesse
After a final rowing session on Monday evening, I went out for dinner with Carly, Feyikemi, Doosuur, Janice and Kinsey. It was great to see them all again and enjoy more delicious food - this time, pork with piri-piri sauce (yes, like Nando's, except no chicken, and much more authentic and yummy...). Then on Tuesday, after the Indonesian class, I was invited for dinner at Sarah's flat, also with Janice. It was lovely to hang out together and Janice and I appreciated the cooking lesson as well!

Inevitably, Wednesday arrived and lots of packing ensued in the morning - fortunately it didn't take too long. Then I met Jesse and Carly for a final lunch, trying not to be too sad about leaving my friends! At least there was caldo verde (a favourite Portuguese soup), a classic main course of meat + chips + rice + salad and a huge slice of melon to cheer me up.

At our final lunch together
I popped in to see my godfather in his office, before heading back to my flat (via one final café stop) and gathering up my last few things. In the 30 minutes I was at home the weather took a turn dramatically for the worse, meaning that when I set off on the 3-minute walk to the taxi rank, I got completely soaked through, and so did a lot of my luggage (including things in bags within my suitcase...). Fortunately, I was able to change into dry clothes at the airport... and then another dramatic event occurred, as I found out I was on the same flight as the GB openweight men's rowing squad, who were coming home from training camp. What a coincidence! It managed to take my mind off the sad part of leaving my Lisbon life.

Boarding the plane, with some rowers
And not long later, I was back in the UK and reunited with my family.

Saying goodbye to Lisbon
The blog will return later with Portuguese adventures of a different kind, on a different continent. Watch this space! And thank you, as ever, to my lovely readers.

Tuesday 7 April 2015

Em Abril, águas mil

Or, April showers

Yesterday in the office Sarah and I taught Marta the saying 'March winds and April showers bring forth May flowers' - because, after about a week of the temperature being 25-30ºC, suddenly there was a thunderstorm in the afternoon. I'm already waiting until I hear someone Portuguese complaining they have a cold because of the change in the weather; it's only a matter of hours...

Lisbon looking photogenic
Since I last wrote a diary entry here, I've had a few days of work, and a few days of play. Good Friday is a feriado (national holiday), and my office gave us Thursday afternoon off as well, although I had to go back to work for Easter Monday, which surprised some people at home.

So, starting from last Monday, what's been going on? Apart from visiting lots of gardens (more on that later) it's been much the same as usual. Various bits of translation and research at work, Monday after work I went rowing, Tuesday after work I went to Indonesian class with Sarah, Wednesday evening I went rowing... 

Blue sky, good views
Thursday was more interesting - although things didn't pan out quite as expected. Poor Carly was suffering from having spent too long in the extreme heat on Wednesday, so after I'd finished work I took her some lunch and we had a relaxed afternoon chatting, napping and reading. Then we went to the Scottish church (St Andrew's, of course) for an ecumenical Maundy Thursday service with St George's (the Anglican church I normally go to) and the German Evangelical Church. It was really fun to be part of it, and there was even dinner afterwards.

Inside St Andrew's
Carly on the way to church
On Friday morning we were back in church - we had been planning to go to St Paul's in Estoril, but the trains were on strike, so we realised we couldn't get there. Carly was keen to experience a Good Friday service anyway, so we went to St George's. It was a small congregation but still a good atmosphere, with our new locum Robert, who used to live in Canterbury (small world - I went to school there). 

Lunch at Rodas - NB my excellent arroz de mariscos (seafood with rice)
Carly, Feyikemi and I then had lunch at our new favourite restaurant, Rodas, near Rato, which was excellent. Then Carly and I went on a walk via the Corredor Verde - a network of paths that connects Parque Eduardo VII with Monsanto, the Parque Florestal (forest park). I was pleasantly surprised by Monsanto, which was very green and peaceful. We spend a couple of hours there then wandered back into Lisbon and cooked and ate dinner at Carly's flat.
Starting the walk to Monsanto
Part of the Corredor Verde looking towards Monsanto
Looking towards the Amoreiras
A view along the aqueduct which, until the 1960s, took water into central Lisbon
I had a really strange feeling on Saturday morning, because it felt like I'd already had a whole weekend, but there I was, getting the bus to rowing just like normal. Surreal! It was a perfect morning for rowing, maybe slightly on the warm side, but the water conditions were great. The rest of the day was very relaxing - I had lunch with Carly, then went book-shopping, and spent about four hours reading a novel in the Jardim de Estrela. Perfection. I cooked dinner with Carly again (she was still a bit ill so not up to spending all day out) then we made Easter nests to take to church in the morning. For me, it was an attempt to carry on a family tradition.

Easter nests, complete with sugar almond 'eggs'
Church on Sunday was lovely - the building was packed (okay, slight exaggeration - it was much busier than normal!) and I was even reminded (thanks to Carly) that I was reading the lesson about five minutes before the service began which could have caused some angst. There was a baptism too! It was all go. After having a coffee and passing round the Easter nests, Carly and Feyikemi and I went for lunch at the same restaurant - I think we must be their new favourite customers. Carly and I went to wander round the Jardim Botânico for a while, which I enjoyed, although parts of the garden felt slightly unloved. Then we went to Fnac, as I was picking up yet more books (and therefore behaving like Christmas had come early...). While we were in Chiado we went to see the Nutella café (Nut'Chiado) that opened there recently - but it was closed. Shame - we'll have to go back another time.

Toadstool sculpture in the Jardim Botânico
More of the Jardim Botânico
At the nutella café
Sunday evening and Monday evening were both very relaxed - lots of time on skype and preparing a few things for the blog. It's hard to believe I have so little time left in Lisbon, only just over a week. I'm sure there'll be more posts, though, even once I've left.

As ever, thanks for reading!

Wednesday 1 April 2015

A Portuguese curiosity

An extra mid-week post today...

I thought I'd put up a quick explanation of a very idiosyncratic quirk of life in Lisbon. I'd guess that most people in the UK, as well as my other regular readers, won't have heard about this before.

At the door of many apartment buildings in Lisbon there's a notice saying something like 'Feche a Porta' (fetch the port). As an example, here's a photo of the sign on my own building's door.

Fetch the port, please (SFF = se faz favor)
This is because in Lisbon there's a very well-developed system for port deliveries. Just like in the UK the milkman will deliver your milk every day, in Lisbon there are Porteiros who deliver port to their customers' addresses every week. Obviously not everyone takes advantage of this system, but it seems to work really well. The notices are simply there to remind anyone going out of or coming into the building to bring the port inside on the day it's been delivered.

There are even some more creative versions of these ubiquitous signs online, such as:
Sourced here
Now... I'd best go and see if anyone's left some port (vinho do Porto) on my front doorstep this morning...

Happy 1st April everyone! And don't forget to close the door on your way out.